vegetarian pho vietnam

Vegetarian Vietnam

Remember when I said I’d be catching up on Vietnam posts for weeks? I wasn’t kidding. Covering the country from top to (very nearly) toe left me with a lot to say, and unfortunately, local internet restrictions didn’t want me to say it. So, I’m still saying it now — slowly but surely. And as…

vietnam night bus

Night Buses in Vietnam: the Good, the Bad, and the Scary

Here’s how I know I may have been backpacking for a bit too long: initially, the idea of Vietnamese night-buses did not strike me as weird. It seemed like a logical progression, I suppose, in my ever-devolving list of transportation choices: I’d started off my trip with flights, rental cars, overnight trains. Then I’d moved…

riding motorbikes nha trang

Riding Motorbikes in Vietnam (With a Little Confidence and a Lot of Help)

I don’t think it’s any secret, or surprise, that motorcycles kind of freak me out. I’ve hated the roar of them since I was a child. I’ve seen countless cocky tourists, from Indonesia to Thailand, in bandages and casts after wiping out on their rental bikes. I once had a near-death experience – sadly, I’m…

Two Treks in Sapa

The single greatest endorsement you can give a place when talking to a Southeast Asia backpacker is “cool.” I’m not talking about a destination’s bars or restaurant scene or fashion sense. I’m getting specifically at temperature. After enough time in Asia’s sweaty cities and humid beach towns, any mention of the words “mists,” “fog,” or…